Rise of once-humble rose evidence of changing tastes

WINE
James Halliday

IN the upcoming 2008 edition of my wine companion, there are tasting notes for 166 roses that scored 87 points or more, leaving a similar number that scored less. Five years ago it was hard work to find 50 and, in any event, no one was very interested in the category.

FROM THE REGION: 2007 Charles Melton Rose of Virginia
HOW do you beat a hot, drought-affected and early vintage and still come up with a top-class rose using a distinctly quixotic mix of grapes? I'm not sure I know the answer, but the 2007 Rose of Virginia (94 points, $20) is up to Melton's best. It has 53per cent grenache, 21 per cent cabernet sauvignon and 13 per cent each of shiraz and pinot meunier. After brief skin contact the juice was pressed, then cold fermented for six weeks. Vivid purple-red, it has vibrant red fruits with a twist of lemon and gives absolutely no clue about the vicissitudes of the vintage. It is widely distributed through the best restaurants of Melbourne and Sydney, and independent fine wine retailers. Drink it now, in its glorious youth. www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au.
James Halliday